There is one evening on every Mallorca trip that we never miss: our first dinner at Portixol in Palma. My husband and I, our friends from Bremen, the four of us at the table.
From the airport we drive past the old fishermen’s quarter to the hotel on Calle Sirena and park between the palm trees in front of the white facade. Inside there is a bright room, linen tablecloths, the bar is called Langosta, and the restaurant has been here since 1956.
We usually order the same things. Scampi tempura, light and crisp. Grilled artichokes with olive oil. A few small plates to begin with, for sharing. And a chilled white wine alongside.
After dinner we walk through the narrow lanes around the harbour basin. Cobbles, lamps, white house walls, the water glittering below between the yachts. A quiet hour when the feeling of being on the island finally settles in.
What began as a practical stop on the way to Sóller has been a ritual for several years now: Portixol has become our ritual for arriving on the island.
Hotel Portixol · Calle Sirena, Palma de Mallorca · portixol.com
The next day we drive up into the Tramuntana: from Sóller to Deià.
Back in September 2026
The evening after landing
In September we were there again. Thursday evening, straight after landing, the same road past the old fishermen’s quarter, the same white facade on Calle Sirena.
At the Langosta bar, we have our first glass of cava. A small fish on the coaster, the wall of bottles behind it.
That evening the grilled artichokes came to the table again. Fanned out thinly, with griddle marks, coarse pink salt on top.
With them, that same evening, the tempura prawns, served on a banana leaf with a small bowl of dip beside them.
The water arrives ice cold in the hotel’s own bottle, with a shell motif on the label. Next to it stood a small glass with a pink greeting from the kitchen.
Later the terrace grows quiet. Parasols tied up, wicker chairs, oleander in flower, and behind it the lights of the harbour.
And once more on the day we leave
Portixol is not only a place to arrive for us. We usually go there for lunch on the day we leave as well. It lies on the way to the airport and, for me, it is a lovely way to close the trip. What I love most there are the grilled artichokes and the tempura prawns.
On Monday 21 September we sat there in the midday sun once more. My violet reading glasses by Doubleice lay on the table, and on my finger was the Princess Dream ring by Ekaterini with its large crystal in rose and fuchsia.
Then a last look at the sea from the rocks by the mole, and on to the airport.
More from this trip: market day in Sóller, an evening at the Nautilus in Port de Sóller and the harbour ritual at Es Passeig.
What travels in my suitcase on every summer trip: a hand fan from my selection in the shop.
Warm wishes from Hamburg
