Sunday evening in Port Sóller. We are sitting at the Nautilus, up on the slope, the bay below us, the pines rustling softly in the evening breeze. An address that has been here since 1972. There are places you always find your way back to because they have never felt the need to follow fashion.
The first thing to reach the table is the frozen strawberry daiquiri. Pink, ice cold, the glass misted over. The classic sundowner for an evening that is still warm, when you can watch the sun travel lower over the water.
Then the sea bass. Fried on the skin, with clams in a sauce that tastes of the harbour and the sea and garlic. A plate that has nothing to prove. Exactly the way I love it.
To finish, a tarta de naranjas y almendras de Sóller. Almond tart with Sóller oranges, with a Cointreau reduction, candied orange peel and a foam of orange liqueur. Sóller oranges are a story of their own: this valley is famous for its citrus groves. The last sip of rosé in the glass, orange and almond in the mouth.
Inside, the tables are being laid for the late service. Pale wood, the light warm, the mood quiet. An address that has known its craft for more than fifty years.
And then, just before we leave, the moment I really came for. The red sun stands large above the horizon, sinks lower, and slowly goes down into the sea.
This is Mallorca the way it should be.
Back in September 2026
Three months later we were here again. The way down to the terrace has stayed the same, the pines, the bay, this sitting high above the sea.
First of all the menu. On it, my hand with the Oceania ring by Ekaterini, rose-gold plated and branching like a piece of coral. It suits the Nautilus perfectly.
The evening began with a pisco sour.
After that we took our time over dinner. It started with an oyster with ponzu and spring onion.
Then a tuna tartare with guacamole and ponzu.
After that came local sea bass on a celery and fennel purée, with clams and a green salsa.
For the main course, free-range beef fillet with grilled vegetables, truffled mashed potato and a reduction of port and shallots.
To finish, strawberries filled with caramelised crema catalana on a base of Oreo biscuits.
We stayed until the sun went down.
Nothing has changed. That is exactly why we come back.
Nautilus Port Sóller · Carrer de Llebeig · 07108 Port de Sóller · Mallorca · since 1972 · booking recommended
If you would like to know how that Sunday began: at lunch by the harbour at the Agapanto in Port Sóller.
More from Sóller: in my post about the market day in Sóller I take you along between the market stalls, the tram and the Sóller Orange Bomb.
A sundowner calls for the right pair of sunglasses. There is a small collection in the shop, chosen by me.
Warm wishes from Hamburg
